Budou

The counter is bustling: some are waiting for the rest of their group before sitting down for dinner, while others, alone, take the opportunity to savor craft beers and natural wines, which change daily on the pour list. Bologna’s first modern Sakaba has become an incredibly convivial gathering spot: unlike an Izakaya, the Japanese cultural element here encourages solo guests to sit at the counter and engage with the host.

And it is precisely the long central counter that has transformed the dynamic of this space, which until recently housed Casa Monica, successfully managed for years with personality and charm by Monica Cuniberti, daughter of a culinary lineage. Enthusiasts of niche, high-quality drinks have found a new haven here, guaranteed by Kouhei Takeda—better known as Take—one of the city’s most charismatic hosts. With patience and kindness, he has been sharing his passion for natural wines for years, starting at the wine bar adjacent to the Mercato delle Erbe. Now, he brings his expertise here, curating and expanding the cellar, sourcing labels from Veneto to the lesser-known gems of central and southern Italy, while also researching and introducing Saké selections. He collaborates closely with the kitchen, using his heritage to bring Bolognese diners authentic Asian recipes never before seen in the city.

At the stoves is the seasoned expertise of Norberto Gianpaolo, who made his mark in Bologna by customizing the ramen toppings at Sentaku before moving on to Bentoteca in Milan—one of Italy’s finest ethnic dining establishments. His touch is precise, innovative, and vibrant, particularly in the treatment of raw ingredients and the creativity applied to seasonings. Until midnight, diners can enjoy Otsumami—small (though not so small) shareable dishes.

The Nanbanzuke is excellent: a carpione-style fish, fully edible, with a rich and meaty texture. The Karaage is irresistible—crispy, juicy nuggets of fried chicken in sesame sauce. The asparagus, coated in an airy, ultra-light tempura, is a crowd favorite, served with a vegetable brunoise-infused mayonnaise that is deeply indulgent.

Among the Shusai (main dishes), highlights include a bold, charcoal-smoked eel, the Kakuni with its elegantly glazed fattiness, and the mackerel sashimi—translucent, tender, and intensely flavorful.

Orchestrating it all is Christian Govoni, who, from his Zapap brewery, has already introduced Bologna to a beautifully fermented pizza on Via del Pratello and a thriving taproom on Via Mascarella. In both venues, a lively and authentic crowd is always gathered. Good things come in threes.